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Friday, December 10, 2004

Haji

Years ago when I was a small boy living in the kampong, we did not have so many Haji, very few and far between, and they were respected not for their religious knowledge but for their having been to Mecca. These are Muslim in Malaysia who have made a trip or two to Mecca to perform their Haj, the 5th pillar of Islam. Its not a must but its an obligation if you can afford it. And there were not many people in the kampong then who can afford to go to Mecca. Most sold their land just to afford the trip. In those days they had to go by ship, a 2-month journey I am told. Someone may correct me on that. My maternal great grandfather went but he did not reach Mecca, he died whilst in the Red Sea, I am told. My grandmother went and she came back alive. My grandfather died before he could go. My father and my mother never went, my father was too sickly and my mother could not afford it, they divorced when I was small. I suppose even if my father was not that sickly he could not have afforded it as well, he had to support a new wife and a couple of boys in school.

This December is the time of the year when most people are preparing to go to Mecca to perform their Haj pilgrimage. The period is about 2 ½ month after the Fasting Month of Ramadan (not necessarily in December as this year is). The month of Zulhejah in the Muslim calendar. And this year my mother-in-law, my wife’s sister and her husband are going. The process of going to the Haj is not that difficult if you have the money, say about RM 15,000.00 per person, its the getting there is the problem. In Malaysia all Haj trips are controlled by the Malaysia Pilgrimage Board, a Malaysian Government body. You have to register with them first. And on top of that the Saudi Government allot only limited places to Malaysians to perform the Haj. I suppose they also allot limited places to other countries, but I have no knowledge of that. I also must suppose that Mecca can only accommodate a limited no. of pilgrims per year, say about 2 millions. Other wise the whole place will overflow with people and the Saudi may loose control. Its just my supposition and I have no official answer to my supposition.

For Malaysians, once they register themselves the process starts. They must have the money in the first place, the Pilgrim Board saving scheme seen to that. Then they must be health checked for suitability of going to the pilgrimage. I suppose these health checks are mere formalities. Then the process of teaching these intended pilgrims on what to expect and how to perform the Haj begins. In fact these are big events for these intended pilgrims, they actually have to attend classes at centres, normally at mosques with accredited ustaz (teachers) teaching them. These ustaz are Pilgrim Board approved persons, and they have these classes usually once a week at weekends. And not only do they learn the theory but they also do the practical. Imagine if you are in Mecca and you do not know the theory and the practical, you are really lost. They are taught how to dress and what to dress in for the Haj performance. With so many people trying to perform in Mecca what they have to perform, one can get rather confused if not properly trained. In fact what these pilgrims will need to know how to perform basically what Prophet Abraham AS performed and what Prophet Muhammad PBUH performed, in addition to that as performed by Prophet Abraham AS. Of course these pilgrims have to know what these Prophets performed before they can perform them. This is where the Pilgrim Board teaches these intending going for the Haj how to perform and to say (their prayers) during the performance. Why the saying (prayers)? These are special prayers, Muslim believe that in Mecca and Medina all your prayers are answered. True? If you believe in them you will say that its true. For me? I have no answer before I get accused.....................

Nowadays, pilgrims from Malaysia do not go to Mecca by ship anymore, they all go by planes. From their local places, they all gather in Kuala Lumpur, at a special location belonging to and organised by the Pilgrim Board, where they are made ready then they all board the planes at the Kuala Lumpur International Airport. Those going with the Pilgrim Board teams usually board specially fitted MAS planes, or planes hired by the Pilgrim Board (usually through MAS) whilst some others who go with "private" tour group may probably board planes from the Saudi Airlines, or planes from other airlines chartered by these "private" tour groups, with the approval of the Pilgrim Board. All planes from Malaysia will land in Jeddah where the pilgrims will then either be taken by bus to Mecca or by planes (some by bus) to Medina Depending on the itinanery. But for the Haj session, everyone has to be in Mecca where they need to spend the special Wukuf night at Arafah and do various ceremonies as required. In fact these ceremonies are just ceremonies, the requirement for the Haj is really that simple; you only need to be in Arafah for the special night and after that you are a Haji (as I understand it). Not a very good Haji but a Haji. But of course the organiser wants you to perform all the ceremonies just to be sure that you get the Haj as you have paid, after all you need not come every year. But of course some people come every year to Mecca to perform the Haj, some can afford it. Whether such trip is required or not is another story. But some people go to Mecca every year during the Haj period for business purposes, they make a lot of money selling some products to these pilgrims.

The ceremonies are really that simple really, but very time consuming and can be very tiring, especially if you are in Mecca during the summer period. I suppose if you ere there during the winter period, its not that tiring and Medina can be quite cold during the winter period. You must be quite fit to do all the ceremonies, the going around the Kaabah, the Sa’i, the prayers in the mosque at every prayer times; and the mosque is always packed and you have to be there hours ahead of the prayer time, the crowded prayer places where you can hardly stand to pray if you are the weak type, nobody gives away such places, the various people from all over the world, the experience and the way of their civilisation which can be quite different from yours, quite daunting, the trips to Arafah the stoning of the ‘devils’ at Mina with small pebbles you collected along the way and all that. With strange food, the rush to go to places, the bus trips, the prayers which you try to learn by heart, (mind you these are mostly in Arabic), and the all that, it will be very much of a strain to a weak body and a weak mind. Its a big challenge, and some people fail, they quarrel and some even die due to the heat and the pressure.

The most happy moments are of course after the Haj proper, the shopping and the waiting to go home. But bear in mind, Saudi is no manufacturing country so what you buy are mostly imported products. Quite a no. of products are from China and some may even be from Malaysia. And you might get cheated as well, they may raise the price as these traders make money for a 1 year living mostly during the 3 months Haj period. They do not steal from you but they raise the price. Nobody steals in Mecca or Medina. If you steal you may get your hands cut off, so people fear that. You will see money being hung on strings at Money Changers booth/places, and when they go for prayer at prayer times they just cover the money with canvas so that it is not so revealing. In fact products are left quite open during prayer times and they do not get stolen/lost. But some people still take precautions by leaving some trusted children looking after their goods while they go for prayers. And everyone must go for prayers during the prayer times.

Going back time is a happy time. To some though its a sad time, some may by then have lost a wife or a husband, died in Mecca or Medina. But to them that is fate, and those who die in these places are "assured" of a place in heaven, so we believe. So, sad as it seems, such assurance make them quite willing to accept such fate. And after such shoppings and even after such tragedy, they will look forward to meeting their kins, friends and children back home in Malaysia. And all will carry souvenirs for everyone, even though the skull cap be made in China. And without fail everyone will have a small tankard full of the zam zam water to give to their loved ones back home, a sort of blessing. So if you were to visit anyone just coming back from Mecca you will be given a small cup of zam zam water to taste.
In those days these Haj returnees will get insulted if you do not call then Haji so and so. But nowadays there is so many Haji in Malaysia, you do not really know who is the Haji and who is not. So such insult is no more felt. But be careful, in some remote places you still have got to be sensitive to such names, or you will be snubbed by the Haji concerned. What if you do not know? You might just be forgiven, but to be on the safe side just call the person a Haji, if he seems oldish, and if he is not then he will normally admit it.

For an ordinary Muslim in Malaysia, savings are usually for the purpose of going for the Haj, just like for a normal non-Muslim where savings are usually for an overseas holiday trip. Each has a purpose in life. Once the Haj is done, then a Muslim believes that he has done his duty to God and he may like to do something else. He might now decide to go for a holiday, bearing in mind that his sins have all been cleansed when he went for his pilgrimage, so he will be very careful where he will choose his holiday places,. Each to his belief.

Going to Haj is a big thing for a Muslim in Malaysia, and most Muslim in Malaysia look forward to such trips. Its a religious obligation which has now become a face saving trip to some people, sad to say. Its just my evil suspicion though, but I am sure that there is some truth in that. Anyway, I do not want to insult anyone with my remarks, something dear in the heart of most Muslims in Malaysia.

I will leave the thought of Haj in the mind of those with deep enough conviction to do what and to go when.

To shout back, e-mail: mylias@tm.net.my


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